|Switch & Circuit||Function||Circuit||Wire Colors||Use|
|Connector Block 1 – (new block)|
|Switch cct 1||Locking||1||Light Green||Amber Strobes|
|Switch cct 1||Locking||1||White||Amber Strobes|
|Switch cct 2||Locking||2||Blue||Amber & Red Strobes|
|Switch cct 2||Locking||2||Green/Yellow||Amber & Red Strobes|
|Switch cct 3||Momentary||3||Green||Not used|
|Switch cct 3||Momentary||3||Orange/Black||Not used|
|Rocker switch 4||Locking||4||Orange||Locking PTT|
|Rocker switch 4||Locking||4||Black/Blue||Locking PTT|
|Push Switch 5||Locking||5||Pink/Black||Radio Power on/off via relay|
|Push Switch 5||Locking||5||Red/Yellow||Radio Power on/off via relay|
|Connector Block 2 - (same as original)|
|Engine Stop cct 6||Variable||6||Sep. Plug|
|Headlight Hi/lo 7 & 8||Adjustable||
|Engine Start||Push||9||Separate plug|
Fitting the new switch pod on the ST1100 is straightforward.
The Police Switch pod comes with 2 connector blocks (Red & Green). The smaller (Red) is the same as the original connector for the standard unit and plugs straight in. This is for the Engine start, kill switch and headlight hi/lo switch.
The extra block (green) is the connector for the P Spec ST1100, this needs to be adapted for a standard Pan.
The new pod has 10 wires (9 in a bundle into the new block, plus 1 free) and the colours are as shown. Unless you have the correct 10 way block already on your ST1100, it is easiest to cut the wires out of the block as close to the block as possible.
The maximum current rating for each of these cables is 5 amps. If you intend to connect anything which draws close to or more than 5 amps you will need to go via a standard relay.
I used a 7 core cable to run from the front to the rear pannier which housed all the extra battery and strobe gear, plus a 2 core PTT line to locking and momentary PTT switches in parallel. You could combine this and use a 9 core cable, but getting a cable rated at 5 amps is not easy and costs a small fortune. Also the cable diameter gets rather large.
To Fit the Pod:
Note you will need new fitting bolts to hold the unit as the old ones will be too short.
- Remove the brake lever to give easier access.
- Loosen the brake master cylinder/fluid reservoir and slide it as far inboard as possible. The new pod is ~ 5 – 8mm wider than the original.
- Remove the retaining bolts and remove the old switch unit. Careful to not dislodge the throttle cables.
- Remove the old engine/headlight connector (Red?) making sure not to damage the sockets.
- Plug in the new engine/headlight connector (Red?) making sure not to damage the sockets. Wrap in waterproof/self amalg tape.
- Loosely fit the new switch pod onto the handle bar taking care not to trap the throttle cables or engine control wires.
- Adjust the position to allow correct operation of the throttle. Bolt down unit, again making sure free movement of throttle.
- Slide the brake unit back against the new switch pod and tighten locking nuts.
- Refit brake lever.
- Check for full and free movement.
Wiring the new Switch Pod:
You will need a 12v auto relay for the radio plus further relays for any kit drawing more than 5 amps.
- Run the 7 core cable to the rear o/s pannier.
- Run PTT cable to Radio as normal
- Identify each of the 10 wires from the new switch pod and arrange them in pairs.
- Connect pair 1 (light green) to amber strobe controller + and (white) to battery +
- Connect pair 2 (blue) to red strobe controller + and (green/orange) to battery +
- Isolate pair 3 (dark green & orange/black)
- Connect pair 4 (orange & Blue/black) to PTT line in parallel to push PTT switch on left handle bar and to Radio.
- Connect pair 5 (red/yellow) to 12v relay coil input (pin 86), connect (pink/black) to battery +, connect relay output (pin 85) to earth.
- Connect relay power input (pin 30) to battery.
- Connect relay power output (pin 87) (n/o) to radio.
4 Pin 12v Relay Pin 30 is 12v live, 85 & 85 Relay coil, 87 ground.
5 Pin 12v Relay has an extra contact 87a. This pin is normally closed (& live) when the coil is un-powered.